[Climbing] Gripping Technique

A good gripping technique and understanding when to use what kind of grip can help a climber progress faster and prevent finger injury.

What are the common gripping techniques?

• Three fingers open grip:

• Four fingers open grip:

• Half crimp:

• Full crimp:

These grips are listed in the order from weaker to stronger, but also from less aggressive to more aggressive to your fingers.

What are the common hold types?

• Sloper:

• Pocket:

• Edge:

• Pinch:

• Side pull:

• Undercling:

• Jug:

The main takeaway today is that there is always the least aggressive way to take a hold, and the most aggressive way to take the same hold. 

For example, this sloper can be taken more openly and less aggressively like this,

or more aggressively in a crimpy way like this.

Similarly, a pinch can be taken in a pinch (less aggressive), or in a full crimp (more aggressive), etc.

To prevent finger injury, we need to practice using all grip types for all hold types. A lot of beginners stuck to aggressive grips when their forearms are not strong enough. The cost of getting stronger grips is the transfer of weight from forearm onto finger tendons and joints. This will not only bring pain and injury over the long time, but also lead to less efficient climbing.